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When one views a jacket, the first thing that may come to mind is the fabric.  Color, pattern, maybe even texture will stand out from afar.  But, when wearing a jacket, the most noticeable and defining trait is the shoulder.

There are a few things that will stand out — good or bad.  Fit is obviously a big one — how nicely the shoulder line (or point to point) matches your own can make of break the fit a jacket.  Too big and the shoulders will hang over onto your arm and look sloppy; too small and that jacket will only last until the next time you tie your shoes (unless you wear loafers).  When designing a jacket for yourself, you can play around with both the point to point and the fullness of the upper arm.  Different ratios create different looks, and what suits you best depends on your body style and preference.

The structure of the shoulder determines the ‘feel’ of a coat.  A large pad in the shoulder can give a jacket a heavy feel — like the coat is wearing you.  Our preference is a softer shoulder, which creates a jacket that has more life and character.  It molds to your body and, combined with a fully canvassed front (no glue, please), gives the jacket a mobility that is lost when the jacket feels bulky and overly structured.

Imagine a man wearing makeup to a meeting.  Sure, it might hide a few blemishes and reduce glare from bright lights, but as soon as someone gets a glimpse of blush, the jig is up.  He’ll forever be the dude who wears make up — which is far worse than being the guy with a new eye wrinkle.  Character, and dressing well, are about being the best version of you.  So instead of building up yourself, and your deltoids, with a false shoulder, try a softer version instead.
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